Oceans: fall

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Wednesday, 25 January 2012

Spring 2012 Couture - Jean-Paul Gaultier

You never quite know what to expect from a Jean-Paul Gaultier show, but you always know it's going to be different from what you've seen before, yet as the first model stepped onto the runway I couldn't help being reminded of someone. In what has definitely been the most theatrical show this couture season, Gaultier presented a surprisingly fun yet moving tribute to the late singer, Amy Winehouse. The long procession of outfits were all evidently inspired by Amy's personal style, which mixed retro 50's pencil skirts and basques with preppy sportswear, and as is traditional with couture shows, more than a few extravagant gowns.

The couture spin on Winehouses style extended to hairstyles, as girls modeled the outfits adorned with the singers iconic beehive hair-do, this time in garish primary colours.

Corsetry and the "undewear-as-outwear" concept once again made its appearance, along with gender-swapping feminine suits and decadent fabric detailing.

The show ended with a procession of deconstructed outfits, the models adorned with lace veils which served as a poignant yet fabulous reminder of the tragic, untimely death of the legendary singer who inspired the collection. Amy Winehouse is gone but certainly not forgotten. I think she would approve.

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Monday, 23 January 2012

Menswear in Paris: Details

Have you been watching the mens collections? Honestly, I usually don't, but i've been hopping with excitement for the Spring/Summer 2012 Couture collections which start tomorrow, and so i've seemingly caught the fashion bug. Surprisingly i've really enjoyed looking at the mens lines, although I've spent more time oggling the hairstyles, bags, gloves and other accessorising ephemera, rather than the outfits as a whole. This probably has more to do with me not knowing an awful lot on what makes a good suit (apart from it looking good on a skinny androgynous model, par for course). Here then are some of my favourite little bits from the collections, as it seems to me a crying shame that the smaller details are often over-looked in favour of the actual clothing. Enjoy!

Thom Browne

Paul Smith

Alexis Mabille

Ann Demeulemeester

Commes Des Garcons Hommes Plus

Dries Van Noten

Givenchy

Louis Vuitton

Walter Van Beirendonck

Sunday, 22 January 2012

Guest Writer: Suiting Up!

This post comes courtesy of my brother Lewis Rayne, video-gamer extraordinaire and style enthusiast (you can follow his nerdy exploits at Fusion Gamer). As today is the final day of the menswear 2012 collections - ready for Couture S/S tomorrow - Lewis here brings to you his take on the shows, from the standpoint of a casual viewer. Enjoy!

Fall 2012 Collection Menswear

Another season has passed and with it a camaraderie of designs and disasters await the eyes of those perusing the Fall 2012 Mens collection. I went through and picked out a few of my favourite looks and a few ...not so favourite looks.

As expected from menswear suits were heavily featured in Milan this week, some from the likes of Canali and Dolce & Gabanna were beautifully cut and featured a level of elegance worthy of gracing a catwalk.

My favourite had to be this Overcoat and Suit combo from the Canali collection. The subtle differences in texture stopped the suit for blending together in a swathe of grey. The touch of red in the scarf adds much needed colour to the outfit. Altogether a well thought out piece.

Canali

On the other hand take a look at this Suit from Calvin Klein to keep with the C thing I seem to be going with. The glitter blended fabric works well as a party piece, everything about this suit should technically work. Single pocket, 2 button and perfectly proportioned for the lovely gentleman wearing it. Sadly it's just to garish for me to consider a good example of a suit.

Calvin Klein

Dotted amongst the Suits are occasional examples of “everyday” wear which looks as practical as a completely impractical thing. Oversized jumpers and massive scarf/rumple things are the token of the day. All is not lost however, Salvatore Ferragamo presented this lovely example of a classic jumper/trouser couple. With it's gentle colour transformation working it's way down the body it's an almost seamless outfit. Coupled with a pair of chiselled cheeks this look is a killer.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Rather than trying to explain what is going on this following picture I just want to make it clear that this odd mish mash of ideas from Henrik Vibskov and styles just presents a cacophony for the eyes. Bask in it and try not to vomit.

Henry Vibskov

I could go on for hours listing my favourites but I won't. Instead I leave you with a few of my other favourites including the military influences of Balmain and Alexis Mabille the velvet elegance of Etro and the gender stereotype breaking beauty of Gaultier. Enjoy and goodnight.