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Tuesday, 31 January 2012

Film Review: The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo


It is well known amongst my friends, peers and anyone who will listen that one of the things I hate most in life are remakes (right alongside all 3D films). However I’m not quite sure that David Finchers adaptation of the best selling Swedish novel can itself be called a remake – Fincher himself has stated the film is more “an interpretation” than a straight up remake. That’s just semantics, but even so the two films do have an entirely different feel to them. As soon as the opening credits start up, we are treated to a signature of Finchers film-making- remember those snaking, ultra-close up shots of the trash can in Fight Club? This is here replicated, alongside a subtly industrial sound-track from Nine-Inch-Nails legend Trent Reznor, who last year won an Oscar for his work on Finchers previous film, The Social Network. These opening credits set the tone for the rest of the film, in which a slow, reptilian sense of violence completely pervades through, both through its characters and the interweaving backdrop of Sweden.

A still from the wonderfully hypnotic opening sequence
The decision to keep the film located in Sweden rather than replacing the story into America is a bold one, as it can always seem a little off balance if there are foreign characters merrily talking in English, but here it works. They have, at least, got the characters talking in passable Swedish accents, besides Daniel Craig’s fallen journalist Michael Blomqvist, who retains his neutral British accent. This is perhaps symbolic of a man unintentionally caught in the middle, being forced to tread fine lines between right and wrong, truth and justice, love and sex. Daniel Craig here gives a surprisingly honest portrayal of the unassuming journalist, caught in a web of deceit and an unlikely friendship with Lisbeth Salander, here played by Rooney Mara.
Rooney Mara, and her possibly-autistic genius computer hacker Lisbeth, have of course been the main talking point of the film, even to the point where H&M have designed a line inspired by the titular tattooed girls anti-social biker style – all holey t-shirts, ripped black jeans and leather jackets. Mara herself was completely dedicated to the image, bleaching her eyebrows white and getting numerous piercings (including that nipple piercing that had everyone in excitement a while back, after making it onto the film poster).  With Rooney Mara’s wafer-thin punk look, Daniel Craig’s classic good looks, and the combination of David Finchers dark directorial vision and Trent Reznors musical mastery, all rounds this is a sinister but stylish film experience.


Sinister is a key word here. The consistently difficult topic of female sexual violence is here taken to its caustic extreme, literally laid bare and forcing the viewer to make a crucial decision – to watch, or look away. I’m talking, of course, about the controversially explicit rape of Lisbeth Salander that happens roughly halfway through the film, and has reportedly resulted in people leaving the cinema. Sexual violence is never pretty, and considering it is a running theme that continues throughout the entire trilogy – well what else did you expect to see? And consider too the point Fincher has chosen to make by placing that scene at the halfway point, that it is possibly the most crucial scene in the entire film, as it represents a turning of Salanders character. In the first half of the film the image of Salander was constantly closed away, behind computer screens, motorcycle helmets, and cigarettes. Visually Salander remained an enigma, both to the characters of the film and to the audience, yet at this point Salander is completely stripped bare and her vulnerability is revealed. It is from this point we see more of her true character as her defences are broken down, and in this way the relationship between Salander and Blomqvist begins to develop. Later in the film (notably after Lisbeth has begun her strange alliance with Michael), Lisbeth takes her fantastically gruesome revenge upon the “government guardian” who attacked her, and I’m sure it wasn’t just me who wanted to cheer out in glee at her bloody vengeance.


Rooney Mara’s Lisbeth is an incredibly complicated character, who despite her angry, fuck-the-world appearance, ultimately comes across as an extremely fragile character. This is to me the main difference between Finchers Dragon and the Swedish original, as Noomi Rapaces Lisbeth seemed to me a rather bullet-proof tough character. Of course both performances are different interpretations of Stieg Larssons original character, yet I feel that Rooney Mara brings a more accessible version. This is because to me the character of Lisbeth Salander is, let’s be honest, pretty removed from reality, seeing as none of us really know any genius computer hackers in real life (if you do, can I meet them?). This makes Lisbeth and automatically hard character to relate to, yet through Maras performance there is another side to her revealed, that of a vulnerable, fragile young woman, one the audience feels a sense of responsibility towards, and this is both the driving attraction of the film and a testament to Mara’s acting. Rooney Mara is the true heart of this film, and very deserving of the Oscar she has been nominated for her performance.


Thursday, 26 January 2012

Spring 2012 Couture Day 3

The 3rd and final day of Spring Couture was actually yesterday, but this post met a delay after choosing to focus on the collection from Jean-Paul Gaultier. Anyway, here are the highlights from yesterdays shows.

Franck Sorbier presented a collection of Grecian-inspired outfits, featuring busts contoured precisely to the models bodies.



Franck Sorbier
Maison Martin Margiela recycled and reinvented luxurious vintage fabrics; the models walked out with their heads concealed in gold and blue masks, a trademark of the Margiela house.



Maison Martin Margiela
Chinese designer Yiqing Yin presented gracefully surreal couture pieces that envelope the body with unique 
folds and layers.


Yiqing Yin
Elie Saab delighted viewers with frothy dresses seemingly lifted straight from an underwater fairytale, continuing the oceanic trend for mermaid-inspired clothing.





Elie Saab
Finally Valentino continued the fairytale theme with vintage floral patterns in neutral pastel shades and intricate beadwork.




Valentino

Wednesday, 25 January 2012

Spring 2012 Couture - Jean-Paul Gaultier

You never quite know what to expect from a Jean-Paul Gaultier show, but you always know it's going to be different from what you've seen before, yet as the first model stepped onto the runway I couldn't help being reminded of someone. In what has definitely been the most theatrical show this couture season, Gaultier presented a surprisingly fun yet moving tribute to the late singer, Amy Winehouse. The long procession of outfits were all evidently inspired by Amy's personal style, which mixed retro 50's pencil skirts and basques with preppy sportswear, and as is traditional with couture shows, more than a few extravagant gowns.




The couture spin on Winehouses style extended to hairstyles, as girls modeled the outfits adorned with the singers iconic beehive hair-do, this time in garish primary colours.




Corsetry and the "undewear-as-outwear" concept once again made its appearance, along with gender-swapping feminine suits and decadent fabric detailing.








The show ended with a procession of deconstructed outfits, the models adorned with lace veils which served as a poignant yet fabulous reminder of the tragic, untimely death of the legendary singer who inspired the collection. Amy Winehouse is gone but certainly not forgotten. I think she would approve.




Jean-Paul Gaultier



Tuesday, 24 January 2012

Haute Couture in Paris - Day 2

Chanel kicked the day off in a typically glamourous fashion with an aeroplane themed runway and models in "Stewardess-Luxe", suit dresses in pastel blues giving way to flapper style dropped waist gowns. The collection remains youthful with punk-inspired hair and dramatic eye make-up.




Chanel
Giorgio Armani Prive produced a breathtaking selection of underwater-inspired outfits, each creation painstakingly adorned to produce a scale-like effect, the models channelled their inner mermaid as they walked in these elegant pieces.






Giorgio Armani Prive
Zuhair Murad played it safe with some pretty but otherwise fairly predictable gowns, their saving grace being the highly-worked detailing that is so important with couture pieces.



Zuhair Murad
Stephane Rolland contrasted traditional elegance with fierce body-armour, set against dramatic decor on the collars and billowing skirts.



Stephane Rolland
My main excitement today was focused on Givenchy, whose sumptuously gothic collection had me completely in awe. Definitely the best collection this season, these staggeringly beautiful dresses hold exactly the right balance of beauty and darkness, Ricardo Tisci's designs feature a range of textures and fabrics from leather detailing and studs to zip features. The whole extraordinary collection screams drama without being over the top - the violence of the dark detailing balanced out by graceful flowing skirts, the models themselves wearing minimal makeup and hair tied in chic buns and a final dramatic flourish of a silver nose ring. This collection will be incredibly hard to beat in my books, yet I remain hugely excited for Jean-Paul Gaultier and Valentino tomorrow. 






Givenchy