Spring 2012 Couture Day 3

The 3rd and final day of Spring Couture was actually yesterday, but this post met a delay after choosing to focus on the collection from Jean-Paul Gaultier. Anyway, here are the highlights from yesterdays shows.

Franck Sorbier presented a collection of Grecian-inspired outfits, featuring busts contoured precisely to the models bodies.

Franck Sorbier

Maison Martin Margiela recycled and reinvented luxurious vintage fabrics; the models walked out with their heads concealed in gold and blue masks, a trademark of the Margiela house.

Maison Martin Margiela

Chinese designer Yiqing Yin presented gracefully surreal couture pieces that envelope the body with unique 

folds and layers.

Yiqing Yin

Elie Saab delighted viewers with frothy dresses seemingly lifted straight from an underwater fairytale, continuing the oceanic trend for mermaid-inspired clothing.

Elie Saab

Finally Valentino continued the fairytale theme with vintage floral patterns in neutral pastel shades and intricate beadwork.

Valentino

Spring 2012 Couture - Jean-Paul Gaultier

You never quite know what to expect from a Jean-Paul Gaultier show, but you always know it's going to be different from what you've seen before, yet as the first model stepped onto the runway I couldn't help being reminded of someone. In what has definitely been the most theatrical show this couture season, Gaultier presented a surprisingly fun yet moving tribute to the late singer, Amy Winehouse. The long procession of outfits were all evidently inspired by Amy's personal style, which mixed retro 50's pencil skirts and basques with preppy sportswear, and as is traditional with couture shows, more than a few extravagant gowns.

The couture spin on Winehouses style extended to hairstyles, as girls modeled the outfits adorned with the singers iconic beehive hair-do, this time in garish primary colours.

Corsetry and the "undewear-as-outwear" concept once again made its appearance, along with gender-swapping feminine suits and decadent fabric detailing.

The show ended with a procession of deconstructed outfits, the models adorned with lace veils which served as a poignant yet fabulous reminder of the tragic, untimely death of the legendary singer who inspired the collection. Amy Winehouse is gone but certainly not forgotten. I think she would approve.

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Spring 2012 Couture - Day 1

Today has marked the start of the spring/summer couture 2012 shows in Paris! The incredibly expensive, incredibly detailed outfits that are showcased in the bi-annual couture shows may be beyond any attainable sense of reality (unless you're fantastically rich, of course), yet there remains something highly appealing about these other-worldly displays of glamour.

Atelier Versace was the first showing of the day, and expectations were high - their first public presentation since 2004, and after the hugely successful collaboration with high-street brand H&M, Versace seems to be heading back to the top. The couture outfits today were a mixture of bold metallics and high-gloss fabrics, to achieve a some-what "space age" effect. Whilst not incredibly exciting, the attention to detail was obvious, although i've never been Donatella's biggest fan and won't be converting any time soon.

Atelier Versace

Next was Bouchra Jarrar, with a rang of soft, ultra-feminine gowns, accentuated with sculptural elements around the neck and waistline.

Bouchra Jarrar

Likewise Christopher Josse paints an ethereal image of grace and serenity with a beautiful palette of feather and silk

Christopher Josse

Alexis Mabille presented a somewhat surreal affair, mixing sumptuous gowns with overly-large headwear and dramatic makeup. I love this collection as it managed to be fun as well as lovely to look at.

Alexis Mabille

The next big show was Christian Dior, and notable in his absence was John Galliano, who has been temporarily replaced by Bill Gayten. I have very mixed feelings on this collection, as there is obviously a sad lacking of Galliano's trademark dramatic flair; in its place is a selection of looks evidently inspired by the 1950's Dior heyday and whilst there is nothing wrong with this collection, it still feels like i've seen it all before. 

Christian Dior

Maurizio Galante aimed for the complete opposite of Dior's vintage high-society feel, instead creating a series of deconstructed "outfits", complete with webbing, loose trails of fabric and some positively avant-garde headwear. I really want to like this collection, yet it feels far too messy to sit well in a couture show.

Maurizio Galante

 Giambattista Valli focused on a selectively monochrome palette of blacks, whites, and deep purples,  occaisonally shot through with flashes of hot pink. Particularly love the diverse range of multi-layered textures on show here.

Giambattista Valli

Iris Van Herpen finished the day off with a futuristic collection of sculptured angles and intricate patterns.

Iris Van Herpen

All images from NowFashion