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Showing posts with label designer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label designer. Show all posts

Monday, 23 January 2012

Spring 2012 Couture - Day 1

Today has marked the start of the spring/summer couture 2012 shows in Paris! The incredibly expensive, incredibly detailed outfits that are showcased in the bi-annual couture shows may be beyond any attainable sense of reality (unless you're fantastically rich, of course), yet there remains something highly appealing about these other-worldly displays of glamour.

Atelier Versace was the first showing of the day, and expectations were high - their first public presentation since 2004, and after the hugely successful collaboration with high-street brand H&M, Versace seems to be heading back to the top. The couture outfits today were a mixture of bold metallics and high-gloss fabrics, to achieve a some-what "space age" effect. Whilst not incredibly exciting, the attention to detail was obvious, although i've never been Donatella's biggest fan and won't be converting any time soon.

Atelier Versace
Next was Bouchra Jarrar, with a rang of soft, ultra-feminine gowns, accentuated with sculptural elements around the neck and waistline.


Bouchra Jarrar
Likewise Christopher Josse paints an ethereal image of grace and serenity with a beautiful palette of feather and silk



Christopher Josse
Alexis Mabille presented a somewhat surreal affair, mixing sumptuous gowns with overly-large headwear and dramatic makeup. I love this collection as it managed to be fun as well as lovely to look at.


Alexis Mabille
The next big show was Christian Dior, and notable in his absence was John Galliano, who has been temporarily replaced by Bill Gayten. I have very mixed feelings on this collection, as there is obviously a sad lacking of Galliano's trademark dramatic flair; in its place is a selection of looks evidently inspired by the 1950's Dior heyday and whilst there is nothing wrong with this collection, it still feels like i've seen it all before. 



Christian Dior
Maurizio Galante aimed for the complete opposite of Dior's vintage high-society feel, instead creating a series of deconstructed "outfits", complete with webbing, loose trails of fabric and some positively avant-garde headwear. I really want to like this collection, yet it feels far too messy to sit well in a couture show.


Maurizio Galante
 Giambattista Valli focused on a selectively monochrome palette of blacks, whites, and deep purples,  occaisonally shot through with flashes of hot pink. Particularly love the diverse range of multi-layered textures on show here.




Giambattista Valli

Iris Van Herpen finished the day off with a futuristic collection of sculptured angles and intricate patterns.


Iris Van Herpen
All images from NowFashion


Sunday, 22 January 2012

Guest Writer: Suiting Up!

This post comes courtesy of my brother Lewis Rayne, video-gamer extraordinaire and style enthusiast (you can follow his nerdy exploits at Fusion Gamer). As today is the final day of the menswear 2012 collections - ready for Couture S/S tomorrow - Lewis here brings to you his take on the shows, from the standpoint of a casual viewer. Enjoy!


Fall 2012 Collection Menswear

Another season has passed and with it a camaraderie of designs and disasters await the eyes of those perusing the Fall 2012 Mens collection. I went through and picked out a few of my favourite looks and a few ...not so favourite looks.

As expected from menswear suits were heavily featured in Milan this week, some from the likes of Canali and Dolce & Gabanna were beautifully cut and featured a level of elegance worthy of gracing a catwalk.
My favourite had to be this Overcoat and Suit combo from the Canali collection. The subtle differences in texture stopped the suit for blending together in a swathe of grey. The touch of red in the scarf adds much needed colour to the outfit. Altogether a well thought out piece.

Canali
On the other hand take a look at this Suit from Calvin Klein to keep with the C thing I seem to be going with. The glitter blended fabric works well as a party piece, everything about this suit should technically work. Single pocket, 2 button and perfectly proportioned for the lovely gentleman wearing it. Sadly it's just to garish for me to consider a good example of a suit.

Calvin Klein
Dotted amongst the Suits are occasional examples of “everyday” wear which looks as practical as a completely impractical thing. Oversized jumpers and massive scarf/rumple things are the token of the day. All is not lost however, Salvatore Ferragamo presented this lovely example of a classic jumper/trouser couple. With it's gentle colour transformation working it's way down the body it's an almost seamless outfit. Coupled with a pair of chiselled cheeks this look is a killer.

Salvatore Ferragamo
Rather than trying to explain what is going on this following picture I just want to make it clear that this odd mish mash of ideas from Henrik Vibskov and styles just presents a cacophony for the eyes. Bask in it and try not to vomit.

Henry Vibskov
I could go on for hours listing my favourites but I won't. Instead I leave you with a few of my other favourites including the military influences of Balmain and Alexis Mabille the velvet elegance of Etro and the gender stereotype breaking beauty of Gaultier. Enjoy and goodnight.

Jean-Paul Gaultier
Etro
Balmain
Alexis Mabille