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Tuesday, 24 January 2012

Haute Couture in Paris - Day 2

Chanel kicked the day off in a typically glamourous fashion with an aeroplane themed runway and models in "Stewardess-Luxe", suit dresses in pastel blues giving way to flapper style dropped waist gowns. The collection remains youthful with punk-inspired hair and dramatic eye make-up.




Chanel
Giorgio Armani Prive produced a breathtaking selection of underwater-inspired outfits, each creation painstakingly adorned to produce a scale-like effect, the models channelled their inner mermaid as they walked in these elegant pieces.






Giorgio Armani Prive
Zuhair Murad played it safe with some pretty but otherwise fairly predictable gowns, their saving grace being the highly-worked detailing that is so important with couture pieces.



Zuhair Murad
Stephane Rolland contrasted traditional elegance with fierce body-armour, set against dramatic decor on the collars and billowing skirts.



Stephane Rolland
My main excitement today was focused on Givenchy, whose sumptuously gothic collection had me completely in awe. Definitely the best collection this season, these staggeringly beautiful dresses hold exactly the right balance of beauty and darkness, Ricardo Tisci's designs feature a range of textures and fabrics from leather detailing and studs to zip features. The whole extraordinary collection screams drama without being over the top - the violence of the dark detailing balanced out by graceful flowing skirts, the models themselves wearing minimal makeup and hair tied in chic buns and a final dramatic flourish of a silver nose ring. This collection will be incredibly hard to beat in my books, yet I remain hugely excited for Jean-Paul Gaultier and Valentino tomorrow. 






Givenchy



Monday, 23 January 2012

Spring 2012 Couture - Day 1

Today has marked the start of the spring/summer couture 2012 shows in Paris! The incredibly expensive, incredibly detailed outfits that are showcased in the bi-annual couture shows may be beyond any attainable sense of reality (unless you're fantastically rich, of course), yet there remains something highly appealing about these other-worldly displays of glamour.

Atelier Versace was the first showing of the day, and expectations were high - their first public presentation since 2004, and after the hugely successful collaboration with high-street brand H&M, Versace seems to be heading back to the top. The couture outfits today were a mixture of bold metallics and high-gloss fabrics, to achieve a some-what "space age" effect. Whilst not incredibly exciting, the attention to detail was obvious, although i've never been Donatella's biggest fan and won't be converting any time soon.

Atelier Versace
Next was Bouchra Jarrar, with a rang of soft, ultra-feminine gowns, accentuated with sculptural elements around the neck and waistline.


Bouchra Jarrar
Likewise Christopher Josse paints an ethereal image of grace and serenity with a beautiful palette of feather and silk



Christopher Josse
Alexis Mabille presented a somewhat surreal affair, mixing sumptuous gowns with overly-large headwear and dramatic makeup. I love this collection as it managed to be fun as well as lovely to look at.


Alexis Mabille
The next big show was Christian Dior, and notable in his absence was John Galliano, who has been temporarily replaced by Bill Gayten. I have very mixed feelings on this collection, as there is obviously a sad lacking of Galliano's trademark dramatic flair; in its place is a selection of looks evidently inspired by the 1950's Dior heyday and whilst there is nothing wrong with this collection, it still feels like i've seen it all before. 



Christian Dior
Maurizio Galante aimed for the complete opposite of Dior's vintage high-society feel, instead creating a series of deconstructed "outfits", complete with webbing, loose trails of fabric and some positively avant-garde headwear. I really want to like this collection, yet it feels far too messy to sit well in a couture show.


Maurizio Galante
 Giambattista Valli focused on a selectively monochrome palette of blacks, whites, and deep purples,  occaisonally shot through with flashes of hot pink. Particularly love the diverse range of multi-layered textures on show here.




Giambattista Valli

Iris Van Herpen finished the day off with a futuristic collection of sculptured angles and intricate patterns.


Iris Van Herpen
All images from NowFashion


Menswear in Paris: Details

Have you been watching the mens collections? Honestly, I usually don't, but i've been hopping with excitement for the Spring/Summer 2012 Couture collections which start tomorrow, and so i've seemingly caught the fashion bug. Surprisingly i've really enjoyed looking at the mens lines, although I've spent more time oggling the hairstyles, bags, gloves and other accessorising ephemera, rather than the outfits as a whole. This probably has more to do with me not knowing an awful lot on what makes a good suit (apart from it looking good on a skinny androgynous model, par for course). Here then are some of my favourite little bits from the collections, as it seems to me a crying shame that the smaller details are often over-looked in favour of the actual clothing. Enjoy!
Thom Browne
Paul Smith

Alexis Mabille
Ann Demeulemeester
Commes Des Garcons Hommes Plus
Dries Van Noten
Givenchy
Louis Vuitton
Walter Van Beirendonck